By
Matt Murphy
Beer Critic
Instead of reviewing a beer this week, I’ve decided to review the Great
Lost Bear, a restaurant/bar in Portland. If you’re looking for the perfect
location to get a genuine feel for Maine beer, this is your place. At most Lewiston
bars, you may find one or two Maine beers on tap—usually a seasonal Gritty’s
or Geary’s along with stock Shipyard ale. So while the well-worn qualities
of Lewiston nightlife remain highly addictive, I recommend taking a breath of
fresh air and a sip of fresh ale down in Portland. Right now, Lewiston feels
like a rural barren Siberia, while Portland feels like Moscow: it’s still
cold as all hell, but at least there’s a semi-refined feel to it.
The Great Lost Bear provides the cream of the microbrew crop with fifty beers
on tap. Fifty beers on tap doesn’t guarantee a fantastic bar experience,
but the Great Lost Bear manages to represent eighteen different beer styles,
and all selections are top notch brews. If you want to get a feel for an Alt,
Brown Ale, Export, ESB, Fruit, IPA, Lager, Red, Wheat, or Seasonal Ale all hailing
from Maine, the Great Lost Bear serves up 5 oz. samples of beer for a dollar
each. I stuck with beers from Maine brewers that I’ve tasted, such as
Peraquid Ale from the Sheepscot brewery and Old English Ale from Andrews Brewery.
Not all Maine microbreweries bottle their beer and the Great Lost Bear also
offers cask-conditioned ales. If you’ve ever sampled a hand drawn pint
in England, you have suckled from the proverbial cask-conditioned teat. The
beer is served at room temperature and features what most consider apogee taste.
I sampled some Old Thumper on cask and it tasted like a completely different
beer.
The Great Lost Bear doesn’t just have a mouth-watering array of beer,
but also has some divine food. After working up my appetite at the Maine rock
gym about a mile away, I split some wings with my friends, ordered the Thai
Chicken Noodle Soup, and devoured a Barbeque Burger. As one may surmise from
my choices, the restaurant served eclectic pub fare. I’m sure the wings
were the best I’ve tasted in Maine and the soup held its own after I added
some salt and hot sauce. The burger was also first-rate, and with twenty different
varieties to choose from, there’s literally a different burger for every
carnivorous student at Bates. Unfortunately, I didn’t notice any vegetarian
options on the menu: luckily, there’s always the vegan bar to fall back
on! The Ninety-Nine restaurant wishes it served food of this golden caliber
(but perhaps some of you prefer factory produced chicken spleen wings fried
in pungent mule feces—I jest, of course).
In terms of décor, the Great Lost Bear falls somewhere between an epic
Hemingway watering hole, replete with staggering yet strangely stoic characters
and powerful guns, and a classic American dive bar, which shares many of the
aforementioned features minus the stoicism. I especially liked the etched mirror
displaying a forest hollow and an original Woodstock poster hanging near my
table. The motif of the Great Bear was carried on throughout the pub, to my
approval and praise. The Black bears of Maine are often buried under the rampant
statewide Moose publicity, but you’ll not find a better mascot to embody
pub ideals.
If you’ve got a serious interest in the impressive and interesting brews
of Maine—well, my friend, you may have a second home on 540 Forest Ave.
at The Great Lost Bear in Portland.
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