This on-line edition of the Pilgrim's Guide to Mount Athos is updated from time-to-time as needed. Updates in this edition, which are changes from the current printed edition, appear in red.

The climate of Athos

Compared with southern Greece, winter on Athos is long, wet, and often cold. Snow is by no means a rare occurrence, even at low levels; and stormy seas often confine boats to harbour. As a result there are few visitors at this time. For those who are not bothered by climatic uncertainty and who want to have the Mountain to themselves, winter can be a good time to go. Several monasteries have now installed central heating and others use wood-burning stoves.

High summer by contrast (mid-June to mid-September) can be very hot and is also the time that attracts the greatest numbers of (mostly Greek) visitors. This means that long-distance walking can be uncomfortable and guest facilities at many monasteries are overstretched. Of those who can choose, many will prefer to plan their visit either in spring (mid-April to mid-June), when the temperature is more congenial for walking and the wild flowers are at their best, or in autumn (mid-September to late October), when the selection of fruit and vegetables on offer may be more appealing.

Mount Athos needs to protect its seclusion, without which it would lose its raison d'être. For this reason it has to impose strict entry regulations. The bureaucracy may at first glance appear formidable; and so it is. But in our experience the following procedure is a reasonably sure way to gain entry.

Finite numbers of male visitors are admitted daily to the Mountain: for the Orthodox the number is 100, for non-Orthodox 10. Women are never admitted. The quota is administered by

The Mount Athos Pilgrims' Bureau

109 EGNATIA STR.

546 22, Thessaloniki

Greece

From	Telephone No.	Fax No.
UK	00 30 2310 252578	00 30 2310 222424
USA	011 30 2310 252578	011 30 2310 222424

After the reservation has been made, you should send by post (not fax) a photocopy of that page of your passport which gives your identification (usually the last page of a UK passport). If you have made your reservation well in advance, you will receive a letter of confirmation from the Pilgrims' Bureau within about two weeks with further instructions. All travelers are requested (in these instructions) to confirm their reservations by telephone two weeks before the date of the intended visit. If you are unable to travel on the date that you have reserved, you are asked to inform the Pilgrims' Bureau so that someone else may take your place. Failure to do so will be noted, and any request for a new reservation may not be respected.

If it is your first visit, you are then instructed to present yourself at the bureau in person with your passport at least one day before the visit. The Bureau is located in the center of Thessaloniki on Odos Egnatias, between the Arch of Galerius and Agia Sophia Square. It is not necessary to supply a letter of recommendation; but non-Greeks who are Orthodox need to prove that they are indeed Orthodox (by means of a letter from a priest or bishop or a baptismal certificate). On second and subsequent visits pilgrims are normally spared the need to visit the office in Thessaloniki and may proceed direct to Ouranoupolis where their papers will be waiting for them.

Visitors in holy orders of whatever denomination must also obtain in advance the written permission (Evlogia) of His All-Holiness the Ecumenical Patriarch by writing in good time to Rum Patrikhanesi, 34.200 Fener-Halic, Istanbul, Turkey. Telephone and Fax Communications:

From:	Telephone No.	Fax No.
UK	00 90 212 525 5416	00 90 212 534 9037
USA	011 90 212 525 5416	011 90 212 534 9037

Provided that you have reserved a place in the quota for the day when you wish to enter, and provided you have the necessary documentation from the Ecumenical Patriarchate if you are in holy orders, you will then be issued with a document addresed to the Holy Community of Mount Athos authorizing your admission on the day in question. You then travel to Ouranoupolis (three hours by bus) where there are hotels and restaurants.

In addition to reserving a travel date with the Mount Athos Pilgrim's Bureau, most of the monasteries now require an advance reservation if you wish to stay there over night. The monasteries and skites currently requiring reservations are:

Vatopedi

Iviron

Karakalou

Koutloumousiou

Pantokratoros

Xenophontos

Xeropotamou

Simonopetra

Grigoriou

Stavronikita

Panteleimonos

St. Anne's

Nea Skiti

If you are uncertain of where to stay at Ouranoupolis, you may like to consider the Hotel Zeus which is conveniently placed between the harbour and the pilgrims' office. Telephone and Fax Communications:

From	Telephone No.	Fax No.
UK	00 30 23770 71274	00 30 23770 71185
USA	011 30 23770 71274	011 30 23770 71185

Ouranoupolis is the usual point of departure for Athos and literally the end of the road. From Ouranoupolis there is a boat every day at 9.45 am which calls at a number of ports on the west coast and Daphni. There is also an earlier departure at 6.00 am which goes direct to Daphni, and in summer there are other options including ‘express’ boats departing at various times. Before embarking, you must visit the Pilgrims’ Office (behind the petrol station) which is open from 8 am to 2 pm. Here you exchange the authorization from the Pilgrims’ Bureau for your diamonitirion which is your official permit, entitling you to hospitality on the Mountain for three or (more usually) four nights. You should also visit the Athoniki shipping office on the waterfront to buy a ticket for your passage to Daphni. It is worth buying a return ticket to ensure a place on the boat on the day you plan to leave Athos. If possible, these tickets should be reserved in advance. Telephone:

From	Telephone No.
UK	00 30 23770 21041
USA	011 30 23770 21041

The 9.45 boat terminates at Daphni, the main port of Athos, which it reaches at around midday. On the way, however, it will call at Jovantsa, the landing stages of Zographou and Konstamonitou and at Dochiariou, Xenophontos, and St Panteleimonos. Visitors may disembark at any of these points if they wish. Another boat leaves for Daphni at 12.45 pm for points further south on the west coast, terminating at Kafsokalyvia at about 2 pm. Ask in the monasteries for the current timetable for boats.

Another boat sails daily from Ierisos at 8.35 am and calls at Esphigmenou and Vatopedi. This service is not always reliable and is subject to cancellation in the event of bad weather. Telephone:

From	Telephone No.
UK	00 30 23770 21041
USA	011 30 23770 21041

The best advice, especially if you intend to walk, is to take as little as possible. At each monastery you will be provided with food and drink, a bed with adequate bedding, and a towel, so it is not necessary to carry these things with you. On the other hand, packed lunches are not normally provided (though the monks in the refectory, if asked, will usually give you a selection of whatever they have), and if you are walking long distances during the day you are well advised to take some basic supplies (e.g. nuts and dried fruit) and a water bottle.

The most important item for walkers is a good map. A number of tourist maps are available locally but these are not recommended. The only good map of Athos is Austrian and may be obtained by writing to Reinhold Zwerger, A-1020 Wien, Wohlmutstrasse 8, Austria. Guidebooks in several languages are available in Daphni and Karyes.

Other things worth taking include a torch (many monasteries do not have electricity; those that do, often turn it off at night); matches (to light candles and oil-lamps); stout walking shoes or boots; casual clothing (formal attire is not necessary; shorts should not be worn at any time; clergy of non-Orthodox denominations are recommended not to wear clerical garb); a first-aid kit; any medication you may need; a hat. There are a few shops in Karyes and Daphni for souvenirs, books, and basic provisions; but these should not be relied on for more sophisticated items such as film, pharmaceuticals, insect repellent, etc. In Karyes there is also a bank where money may be exchanged or withdrawn.

You Can Help Your Fellow Pilgrims

The information provided in these pages for your convenience is, of course, subject to change. Boat schedules and hours of service of the offices mentioned above may change from season to season. The Friends of Mount Athos attempt to keep this information up to date and to issue advisories as the need arises. You can help us and your fellow travelers by advising us if you find upon arrival that the procedures or schedules have changed. We appreciate your cooperation in our efforts to keep this information current.

About the Friends of Mount Athos go to:

• Friends of Mount Athos Home Page
• Friends of Mount Athos Membership
• Officiary of the Friends of Mount Athos

Other Web Sites to Visit:

• The Philotheou Monastery Greek Manuscripts Catalog Project
• History of Philotheou Monastery & its Library

http://www.athosfriends.org/PilgrimsGuide/guide_planning.html